Lipids, Essential Oils, Peptides, Acids in Skin Care
Lipids
Wide range of ingredients found in plants, animals, and human skin. Lipids include fatty acids.
Thickeners/Emulsifiers, Emollients, Skin-Replenishing are examples of skin care lipids.
Lipids are the good skin fats under our epidermal layer that keep everything else intact. Skin lipids are naturally occurring and produced by our bodies, but we can help replenish them from outside sources (more on that below). Lipids are important to the general function of our skin barrier, which supports hydration retention and maintains skin’s firmness, elasticity, bounce, texture and skin tone (everything). Our body’s ability to produce these crucial lipids decreases with age though; just like the rest of our bodily functions, they slow their roll over time.
Aside from aging, other contributing factors that accelerate a weakening of the skin lipid barrier are diet, alcohol consumption, cigarette smoking, stress, environmental aggressors and pollution.
Layers of skin like a brick wall
The sub-levels of our skin are like a brick wall. Skin lipids are like the cellular mortar that support the greater structure. If they fail or deplete, the visible epidermal layer noticeably sags and loses facial fullness.
The three most important lipids that fortify skin’s protective barrier are:
Ceramides - responsible for skin hydration
Cholesterol - responsible for skin elasticity, and unrelated to cholesterol in the blood
Fatty Acids - responsible for lipid balance, abundant in young, healthy skin
Jojoba oil is successful skin replenisher because it closely mimics our skin’s natural sebum, so the barrier to product entry is less because skin recognizes it as its own. Jojoba oil is found in the Vitamin C, Complex Retinol + Collagen, and Radiance Serum.
Vitamin E is renowned for its regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties and benefits to maintaining healthy skin. Studies show that the human body prefers natural sourced Vitamin E to synthetic forms and that natural sourced is 100% more effective than synthetic forms.
Atlas Rose uses emulsifying wax organic emulsifying wax (beeswax, lecithin, copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax as our moisturizing and mask base.
Lipids and essential oils have strong antimicrobial properties — they kill or inhibit the growth of microbes such as bacteria, fungi, or viruses. They are being studied for use in the prevention and treatment of infections, as potential disinfectants, and for their preservative and antimicrobial properties when formulated as pharmaceuticals, in food products, and in cosmetics.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are plant extracts made from flowers, leaves, and seeds. Some have healing properties that can treat certain skin conditions.
It doesn’t get much greener than essential oils: when used correctly, they are among Mother Nature’s most potent remedies.
Atlas Rose only uses essentials that are not photosensitive
Chamomile
Chamomile oil contains azulene, known for increasing moisture and reducing inflammation. Found in the hydrating moisturizer, purifying toner, and spot treatment.
Frankincense
Helps alleviate oily and acne-prone skin while providing lipids for aging skin and dry skin types. Found in vitamin C serum, radiance serum, pH balancing toner, purifying toner, hydroboost mist, spot treatment, balancing moisturizer, breakout rescue moisturizer.
Geranium
With its alkaline properties, geranium is said to help balance out skin oils. Such alkalinity makes geranium a key addition to toners and moisturizer, and it’s helpful in evening out hydration levels. Found in pH balancing toner and nightly renewal moisturizer.
Tea tree
Derived from the melaleuca tree, tea tree is one of the most notable antiseptics in alternative medicine. It helps fight bacteria and inflammation, both of which can contribute to acne breakouts. Found in spot treatment, balancing moisturizer, and purifying toner.
Carrot seed
Carrot seed oil is used to decrease scarring. It can also help reduce the appearance of wrinkles in mature skin.
Tangerine
Tangerine oil has a high antioxidant profile, which makes it useful for promoting smoother, more toned and hydrated skin. Found in the invigorating cleanser.
Myrrh
Historically, myrrh was used by Egyptian women for anti-aging skin care regimens. This antioxidant-rich oil is thought to promote circulation, creating brighter, more refined looking skin. Found in the vitamin C serum, radiance serum, nightly renewal moisturizer, and the emerald body oil.
Eucalyptus
Can give you the soft, blemish-free skin you so desire!
Eucalyptus oil, also known as ‘Nilgiri tel‘ (Hindi) is one ingredient that can have far-reaching effects on our overall well-being. This amazing oil is obtained from the dried leaves of the eucalyptus tree, which can also help with dry skin to help stimulate the sebum glands naturally. Found in the refreshing facial cleanser.
Blue Tansy
Also known as True Moroccan Chamomile. Another variety grown in Morocco, Ormensis multicaulis. Full of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, to calm the skin, reduce heat, reduce redness, and relieve delicate or troubled skin. Found in the brightening serum
Reishi Mushrooms
Decrease fine lines and wrinkles, as well as repair and reinforce the ceramides in the moisture barrier. Found in the Complex Retinol + Collagen serum.
Organic Coffee
It enhances circulation: When coffee promotes blood circulation, it leads to healthy and energized skin, effectively reducing the swelling of tissues and de-puffing areas of the skin. Found in the caffeine lift eye serum and the vanilla coffee body polish.
Peptides
Peptides are segments of proteins and occur in a wide variety in the body exerting many important physiological functions. When applied topically to skin peptides have been shown to have various benefits including (e.g. anti-aging activity). Today, dozens of peptides are used in skin care products and there are many more currently in development. Even though peptides consist of natural components (amino acids) most peptides that are used in personal care products are synthetic.
Peptides are extremely hydrophilic (water-soluble) and therefore easy to use in cosmetic formulas. However, peptides are relatively heat sensitive. In order to be functional, peptides must be stable in their base formula, they must be paired with a specific carrier that enhances their absorption into the skin, and they must be able to reach their target cell groups without breaking down. Because peptides are small, they can penetrate the skin's protective barriers to get to the deeper layers of the dermis.
Peptides in Atlas Rose products
Palmitoyl Tripeptide- Improves appearance of skin relief, fine lines, and wrinkles from the inside particularly on the forehead and crow's feet
In-vitro studies have found a matrikine-like effect that stimulates the synthesis of six major proteins including collagen I, II, IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid and laminin 5. Found in age rewind toner, age rewind eye lift, antiox serum, vampire lift jelly mask
Argireline Peptide - Found to be involved in facial skin muscle tightening. Main ingredient in Botox. builds keratin and skin collagen proteins. Found in the age rewind eye serum and the vampire lift jelly mask
Tripeptide-5 Peptide - Has been shown in clinical studies to reduce significantly the appearance of dark circles & puffiness around the eyes. One study showed 35% reduction after 8 weeks treatment. Regular application will make the skin look smooth, rejuvenated, and regenerated. Found in the age rewind eye serum and the vampire lift jelly mask.
Hexa Peptide - Significantly improves the look of eyelashes making them appear longer, thicker, and fortified. Found in the lash and brow booster
Penta Peptide - Visible effect in 2-4 weeks. Best results at 6 weeks. Hair on the eyelashes and eyebrows have a very short active growth phase of only about 30-45 days which explains why they are shorter than scalp hair. Approximately 60-80% of the eyelashes are in this phase. Entire duration of cycle for the eyelashes is 3-4 months where as the scalp hair cycle is about 3-6 years. Found in the lash and brow booster.
LiPeptide - Moisturizes, plumps and minimizes fine vertical lines of the lips. Lip volume increased by 30% on average in clinical studies. Found in Red Hot Lip Balm.
Cooper Peptides - promotes the production of collagen and elastin in your skin. It also acts as an antioxidant and promotes production of glycosaminoglycans (such as hyaluronic acid). In addition, copper peptides have been shown to remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue. Found in Vampire lift jelly mask.
Acids
Acids are powerful. They work. They give you results. Fast. It’s easy to get addicted.
But this is one case where more ISN’T better. Go overboard with acids you’ll destroy your skin and pH levels.
Acids do have a place in your skincare routine. You just need to know how to mix and match them to get the best results without the irritating and drying side effects.
WHAT TYPES OF ACIDS ARE USED IN SKINCARE AND HOW TO LAYER THEM?
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS)
A family of water-soluble exfoliants that work by dissolving the glue that holds skin cells together so they can slough off. With them out of the picture, your skin is softer, smoother and brighter. Plus, they hydrate skin, too. The catch? High concentrations and overuse can dry out and irritate skin. The most famous members of the family are glycolic acid, and lactic acid. Great for Dry and sun-damaged skin and oily/congested.
Best example would be Prairie Bliss Botanicals pink clay and white clay exfoliating cleanser. Also, the green clay detox mask and the brightening mask.
BETA HYDROXY ACID (BHA)
Salicylic acid is the only BHA used in skincare. Unlike AHAs, it’s oil soluble. This means it does double duty: it exfoliates the surface of the skin AND gets inside the pores, unclogging them from within. Plus, it has one more trick up its sleeve: it has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness and irritation.
Do not use with a exfoliation. You can combine salicylic acid (BHA) with a Glycolic (AHA).
HYALURONIC ACID
You can literally layer this particular acid with any type of acid. Hyaluronic acid is technically a sugar. A super hydrating one. Hyaluronic acid acts like a moisture magnet that attracts water from the air into the skin. It’s so powerful, it binds up to 1000 times its weight in water! All that moisture makes skin softer, plumper and brighter. The best products is the Prairie Bliss Botanicals + antiox dermal filler serum, nightly renewal, and the brightening serum, both serums have the concentrate of 2% hyaluronic. Soak it up!
Hyaluronic can be used daily.
L-ASCORBIC ACID
A weak acid, L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure form of vitamin C. It fights free radicals, and boosts collagen. It goes bad super quickly when exposed to light, heat and air. High concentrations also sting and irritate skin and can make the skin photo sensitive. That’s why lots of people prefer to use Vitamin C derivates. Such as Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, (skin lightening pure Vit. C), Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, carrot tissue, sea buckthorn such as bliss botanicals vitamin C, radiance serum.
POLYHYDROXY ACIDS (PHAS)
A family of gentle exfoliant acids that’s as effective as Alpha Hydroxy Acids but with a larger molecular structure. Translation: they exfoliate skin just as well but are less irritating. PHAS don’t dry out the skin so quickly. Less monitoring. The most famous members of the family are gluconolactone, fruit acid AHA, and lactobionic acid. You can combine PHA with any type of acids. Best for Sensitive skin and all skin types: lactic fruit acid or PHAs
You can use just PHAS gentle acid daily, however, if the skin starts to get flaky, dry, and tight start skipping days.
Best found in the FizzzRocks Exfoliant
RETINOID ACID
Retinoic acid is the only form of Vitamin A your body can recognize and use to treat wrinkles. It fights free radicals, speeds up the skin’s natural exfoliating process and boosts the production of collagen. But it’s super harsh on the skin depending on the percentage. It can cause severe dryness, peeling and irritation when you over use this acid. That’s why it’s prescription only once it gets past 2%.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
Why Mix: Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid?
Skin loses water and moisture as we age, and especially with the use of drying ingredients such as retinol A on its own. Hyaluronic help restore hydration, mixed with Retinol A is it an incredible tool to speed up cellular turnover smooth skin and boosts collagen.
Why Mix: Retinol and Niacin B3?
When used together, your skin is better able to convert retinol into retinoic acid for faster results because niacin strengthens the skin's barrier, retinoic acid becomes less irritating and more tolerable.
Why mix: Retinol and Tri-5 peptides?
Retinol and Tri-5 peptides appear to be a breakdown product of collagen, peptides fool the body into making collagen, allowing the skin to be firmer and plumper, wrinkles and fine lines will be less visible.
